With the price of gold being so high right now i was thinking of selling some scrap jewelry i have . Anybody know how much 14 carat scrap gold is worth in grams ?
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With the price of gold being so high right now i was thinking of selling some scrap jewelry i have . Anybody know how much 14 carat scrap gold is worth in grams ?
here you go Mr L put the current gold price in and hit calculate
http://www.goldprice.org/scrap-gold-...alculator.html
14Kt is worth about 19$ a gram but you wont get that you might get 15$ a gram
Its only worth that much as gold. If your trying to compare it to dollars and exchange it for paper your going to come out behind.
You should be buying Gold not selling it...
i have experience with http://midwestrefineries.com/....ill vouch for them and you...likely to get more and have it be a lil less seedy then the local pawn
Weight of Alloy 1.00 Grams - 0.64 Dwts - 0.032 Troy Ozs
Alloy Gold of 0.583 Purity
Weight of Metal 0.019 Troy Oz of Pure Gold
Price Used 1,049.20 USD / Troy Oz
Value of Metal 19.68 USD
Be careful buying from ebay, Dante !
There is a lot of false junk there.
Just because a piece of jewelry is stamped 14ct,14kt, etc., doesn't mean it really is that purity. It's not that hard to make a stamp.
This is the reason buyers have so much "vig" on the transaction, they will sometimes get burnt. They also have refining costs, as investors want .999 pure K-rands, Maple leafs,etc.
If you want to hold gold, I'd suggest one of the various bullion coins, over jewelry. They would be much more easily bartered in the Apocalypse. You can get buillion coins as small as .1 ounces.
I'd never trust scrap ebay gold to be 14ct. There is a reason it is offered on ebay.
The coins can't really be faked....if you have a simple scale to verify weight. The only thing heavier than Gold is Platinum, it's worth more than Gold, so there is no metal that can be used for fakes, lead doesn't quite cut it, but can be passed off in jewelry, which is all different.
BE CAREFUL !
Fake gold or real? A few hints and tests.
by: pawnbrokersworld( 2474
)
91 out of 92 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 3701 times Tags: jewelery | test | plated | forged | gold
Fake gold or real? How to test your gold.
Here a few tools, techniques and tricks on recognizing real gold. Sadly, gold hallmarks are not 100% reliable, with unscrupulous people adding false ones especially recently. I've had a lot of experience and still, very rarely, I have been fooled so you do have to be careful and thorough...
There are many ways to test for gold purity, ranging from mass spectrography (you need a university in your pocket for that), refining (you need a furnace), various electronic testers (too expensive unless you’re a professional) or you can buy a few acid solutions and a touch stone from your local jewellers supply.
This is what I have used over many years and it has seldom let me down. You cannot buy these online as they are very powerful and dangerous acids and shipping these by mail is banned and please be careful when using them. Disposable gloves are a must unless you want yellow stains on your hands that will stay their until the affected skin comes off. That's not a joke.
TOUCH STONE ACID TESTING...
The acid solutions are marked with various karat gold strengths, usually 9K, 14K and 18K. This is in Australia. Other countries have their own standards.
You must have samples of known ct / K gold to compare with if you use the touch stone method. A touch stone is a ground black glass sheet or similar.
You take your unknown piece and rub it on the touch stone leaving a mark. You then rub your various known carat golds next to it and apply the acids across them all. The unknown gold will react the same as one of the known gold marks (generally the mark disappears). And thus the unknown becomes known.
I personally use the next method as it is far more accurate and reliable although it will leave a permanent mark.
ACID TESTING THE ITEM DIRECTLY...
Because you are only rubbing surface gold onto a touch stone, you may not be testing what’s really inside. It may be just thick plate. What you need to do is go through the surface of the gold by using a file or blade in an INCONSPICUOUS place. A good place in the case of a chain or bracelet is to do it inside the links or clasp, where there is already a lot of wear from links rubbing. File or cut into it a small amount and then place a drop of, say 9K acid, directly on the cut...
If no reaction then it is at least 9K.
Use the next highest acid (say 14K).
No reaction then try 18K acid.
No reaction? Then you know it’s a least 18K gold.
Some of the reactions you may see are as follows... If the cut goes brown then it’s gold but less than you acid strength. Try a lesser acid until no reaction. That’s your carat gold.
If it goes green and may bubble, it’s got copper in it and is plated gold. Copper is nearly always used in the gold plating process.
If the acid goes milky white and the metal black, it is possibly silver.
The only reaction you want to see is a brown tarnish on the gold….All else is NOT solid gold. Remember you want to test well below the surface. I have seen many old pieces of jewellery that have many nicks and file marks having been tested numerous times. Sadly some dealers are none too subtle as to were they mark the piece. If you think about where to test, you should leave only an inconspicuous mark.
Things that should raise your suspicions...
Look for discolouration. Plating wears and the metal beneath may show. Inspect between the links and near the clasp where the piece rubs the most. If in doubt, test.
Anything lacking known hallmarks should be questioned. There are a number of reasons that the marks may not appear. The piece may have been repaired. A ring may have been resized. A piece may be worn enough to rub away the hallmark. If in doubt get an unconditional guarantee and then test.
Experience in the colour of particular carat gold is important. 22K or 24K is a bright bright yellow. 18K is a strong yellow. 14K is less and 9K less yellow again. Not always a perfect indication as sometimes a lower carat gold is plated with a higher carat gold to make it look better. That’s not illegal.
Look at the links. Nearly all gold jewellery has every link soldered closed. Gold is a precious metal and no self-respecting jeweller would leave links open so you could lose the piece easily. If any link is unsoldered be suspicious
Most fake gold chains and bracelets are heavy. Lightweight counterfeit are uncommon. That’s because it’s only worth forging heavier pieces. No point in breaking the law for peanuts.
With rings it’s a different matter and you have to be particularly careful and of course if the piece discolours your skin then you know it’s not gold. To late, then, I'm afraid.
Many other tests only come from experience. A few are a bit strange but are enough to raise your suspicions.
Gold is a very heavy metal and over the years you learn the “feel” or “heft” of it. I can generally tell if it’s ok by the weight as it falls into my hand.
Gold is a soft metal. With high karat gold (22K, 24K) you can leave a mark with your teeth. I’m sure you’ve all seen it on TV. It works but don’t try it on 18K or less if you value your teeth.
Many have suggested a magnet is a good test. I have yet to encounter gold plated steel jewellery so I don't think that test has much use. In fact I have never bothered with it.
An interesting one is the smell test. When people say they can smell gold they may not be far wrong. If your hands are sweaty, rub the gold jewellery vigorously in the palms of your hand. If it’s plated you may smell a strong acidic metal smell. That’s the electrolytic reaction of your salty sweat on the plated metal.
In the old days people were able to recognize the “ring” or “tone” of a gold band which was tied to a hair and tapped.
None of the last few can be relied upon and are mentioned out of interest. So the best thing is to buy a gold testing acid kit. They are not particularly expensive, considering the price of gold. It will have full instructions. Next, make sure you get a guarantee as to the gold you are buying. Check it yourself if you feel confident or have it checked by a professional.
One last point worth making is that if the piece of jewellery has some age, and the hallmark is clear and in the style of the period, you can be pretty cetain the piece is genuine. It seems only more modern items are sometime less reliably hallmarked.
LASTLY, I point out that I am not a jeweller and that the above guide is just that, a guide.
I am a pawnbroker with 25 years experience. If you want professional advice go to a jeweller.
SEE MY OTHER GUIDES FOR OTHER INFORMATION ON JEWELLERY.
Vote as appropriate.
© 2008 Edward Vabolis
ML: I'd personally take the stuff you want to sell to a couple of local coin dealers/ jewelers for a price. They should all be close in price. I don't like the idea of mailing to somebody far away, JMO !
The overhead of postage/insurance probably makes them no more likely to pay more.
I'd rather hear... " I'll give you $ XXX for that", instead of getting a check for an unknown amount.
It would be interesting to have two identical pieces, and test the price results, given a stable gold price.
trust me like the above poster said....you shouldnt be selling your scrap gold you should be buying....
you need to understand, digest and come to grips with 1 simple fact....
GOLD= real MONEY
United States dollars= toilet paper
the sooner you can understand that the better off you will be
BUY gold DONT sell it....
ps that youtube above its great...peter schiff is the man...search "Peter Shiff was right" on youtube and it will open up your eyes to a whole new world....
the more hands its gotta pass through the less you get....your selling direct to the refiner no middle man....yes you throw 5-10 bucks or whatever on shipping but i assure you most buyers are NOT paying 95%.. lots of scam operations are paying 50%. midwest will send you a breakdown of total weight....actual gold weight...and the spot price used to settle the order...
the owner GARY has personally called me to discuss products i have sent that didnt karat out just to resolve and potential issues. i agree with other posters that theres alot of bad stamps out there....old pocket watches are one of the worst ones...usually gold filled
check for stamps and also check with a strong magnet....anything that sticks is crap...easy test i run on everything
These guys might very well pay more. I'd still want to take it to a local, get his offer, ( check spot price), then see how much more the refiner pays, after shipping costs ( assuming spot price remains stable).
It probably is only worth it, if you have more than a few grams ?
Doug is right, take it to a local, most of those mail in places are either out and out frauds or will rip you off on the price. A TV crew locally did an investigative service on them and it was alarming, one place was giving people $1 a gram for their gold. Later they advertised "we have doubled rates", that meant they were giving you $2 a gram, still way below market levels. They were also weighing things wrong, making it hard for people to have their merchandise returned and just working folks over that were overmatched on the topic.
I'll be honest with you, a pawn shop is going to give you around 8 dollars a gram in Florida/Mississippi. But it will be cash and it will be given to you the second you hand your gold over. Depends if you sell it outright or look for a loan on your gold but the dealer has to hold it either 30 or 60 days. Pawn shops accumulate a large amount over that period of time, you are taking a risk as if gold drops dramatically you have screwed the pooch. Throw in overhead, rent, employees etc... and there is no way they can pay some of the prices mentioned in this thread. Still there is no question we pay more than the mail in places, those are rip-offs, no two ways about it.
As for how to look for fakes, we acid test. Truth is if you handle it daily you almost can spot real gold from across the room. If you aren't a pro be careful, everyone these days has learned to stamp 14k on items to fool suckers. Also sometimes people will put a real clasp on a fake chain, either purposely or not knowing any better. If you test the clasp it may test positive for 14k but the chain is not real. I'd advise take things to a pawn shop first, have them tell you if it's real or not and how much weight you have. Even if you don't sell it you will have a good idea what it's worth. And for the record nobody is paying 95% of weight, nobody.
Fake Rolex is another thing to look out for, they are very tough to spot, even for dealers. Not the cheap one's but the good fakes are very good. As the guy on Pawn Star said, someone will spend 5k to make a fake Rolex and it's very close to the real thing. I doubt anyone not in the business (and some that are in it) can spot a fake Rolex if it's a top of the line fake. Be careful. It hurts to get burned but can happen very easily if you don't know what you are doing.
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